In a large pot, heat the oil over medium-high heat. Add the cloves, cinnamon, mustard seeds, cumin seeds, and curry leaves. Cook while stirring for 2 minutes.
Add the onion and sauté for 2 minutes. Add the turmeric and cook, covered, until the onion is fried and golden, about 6-8 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the tomatoes and ginger-garlic paste and mix well. Put the cover back and cook for 5-6 minutes.
Add the chickpeas, salt, ground red pepper, and stir well. Add water, cover, and cook until the chickpeas are tender, between 1 1/2 to 2 hours. Add the garam masala and cook for an additional 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in the fresh cilantro. Serve over rice or any other grain, and top with more fresh cilantro, or scoop up with some naan. Bon appétit!